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A N'ice weekend in Reykjavik

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 - Chrissie of The New Forest

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At home in Blackfield, the word Saga conjures up holidays for the over 50s (me) and supposedly cheaper car insurance. On a prize-winning weekend in Iceland it paints a far more exciting picture of honour and humour, trolls and tragedy.

 



I don’t even know which competition it was that resulted in a letter from Protravel saying I had won three nights for two in Reykjavik from the E45 Promotion. But it became real last Thursday when, after a short flight,we took our first glimpse of this still-young country, which less than a hundred years ago had mostly rock and turf houses and an almost-forgotten existence. Even today there are just 300,000 people in the whole of the country!

 



Our hotel in the centre of the city was new and minimally modern. Asking about a room upgrade meant we were given the nicest one on the top floor overlooking the harbour and the main street. After a quick check of the duty-frees, we walked around the 101 District until we found a restaurant we particularly fancied as it had live music. We didn’t realise that here the entertainment starts at 11pm. The meal was delicious (and expensive – one glass of white wine cost £7) however we had to admit defeat and leave before the band arrived. So we went back later the next night and enjoyed another meal with Django Jazz.

Friday was the city tour, hearing about the history and culture. The church was magnificent in its simplicity and really deserved a second look. Unfortunately, when we went back on our own, both it and the tower were closed for six hours for a funeral. Six hours!

 

Saturday’s trip was the ten hour Golden Circle tour, which showed us the glacial Gullfoss waterfall, a volcanic crater, the Geysir hot springs and geysers and the Pingvellir National Park. At times you could have been on the Moon or Mars, the terrain was so alien and untouched.
 

The Park is on the mid-Atlantic Ridge and the fault where the Tectonic plates had shifted was clearly – and scarily – visible. The weather changed from sunshine to snowstorms in a matter of minutes, with hailstones and howling, biting winds thrown in for good measure. Chrissie thought a picnic would be a good ( read cheap) idea and although the guide said it was too cold to sit out in it, we enjoyed our cheese rolls and boiled eggs. Yes, it was very similar, if not guiltily identical, to what we’d had for breakfast but it beat paying £19 each for a small chicken salad in the café. After all, we’re British, so what’s a bit of wind, if you’ll pardon the expression.

 
One area is particularly supernatural and steeped in mystery. Several women are renowned for seeing the elves and spirits who live in the hills and caves. Pickled and I don’t have to travel that far, but we do tend to keep it to ourselves. Unless, of course, we display the evidence on Dot’s page. The Little People must have been hiding, although we saw plenty of tiny, painted wooden “houses” next to the rocks where they are supposed to live.

Making the most of every minute, we combined Sunday’s return journey to the airport with another tour, this time to the wild, rough lava fields, bird cliffs and North Atlantic shore. Now you really could be on another planet. Who said I usually am?


 

 

The final stop was at the Blue Lagoon, a spa set in a hot geothermal field. The water’s a creamy turquoise because of the silica and minerals and hotter than the average bath. It’s a strange feeling relaxing in the warmth from the neck down while your head is being pounded by large hailstones. The silica sticks to your hair and makes it feel as coarse as hemp. As could be expected, my comb was in the suitcase so I spent the rest of the day looking like a spaced-out Worzel Gummidge.

 

What an experience! For anyone who likes nature in the raw and wearing five layers of clothes, this is certainly a trip worth making. And as there’s a comp at the moment to win a holiday in Iceland, who knows who’ll be next?

 

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