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Before our win, we had never really
considered visiting Ibiza, as we had expected it would be full
of clubbers, and beautiful young people wearing little more
than a smile and a tan. And true enough, if you stuck to the
main resorts, that’s exactly what it was. But we soon
discovered there is another Ibiza that is both unspoilt, quiet
and well worth a visit. But to reach the remoter parts of the
island, car hire is a must. And, as we had been lucky enough
to be provided with a generous spending allowance, that was
our first purchase.
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We were staying at the 4-star Sirenis
Club Goleta, situated smack bang on the Island’s best beach:
the Platja d’en Bossa. And with such an enviable setting, even
the constant free ‘air display’ (we were right under the
flight path’ for Ibiza’s main airport) was a source of
entertainment - rather than annoying. In fact, had most of the
women not been slim, topless and wearing thongs, we would have
happily remained there the whole week, and not budged (but
hubby lost the coin toss!), as we were adequately provided for
with a beauty/health centre, tennis courts, volley ball,
poolside drinks and all the other little necessities that make
for a good holiday. But both of us (meaning me, of course!)
enjoy exploring, and wanted to see more of Ibiza’s bits, other
than boobs and bums. So after a (cover your eyes Dee!) huge
breakfast, we set off in search of the other Ibiza.
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Once we got the lay of the land, we
found one of the islands most the famous and popular eating
places: El Bigote (Spanish for ‘moustache’), a restaurant
named after its fisherman/chef owner, who sported a large
moustache and cooked his daily catch in front of his hungry
customers. The restaurant appeared to be little more than a
covered jetty extending into a small cove, which was reached
via a long dirt track down a cliffside. Sophisticated it was
not, but it simply oozed charm and appeal. There was no
telephone, so the only way you could get a reservation was in
person, two days in advance. It was full the day we stumbled
upon it, so we had to content ourselves with just a photo, and
the knowledge that the food was delicious - judging by the
full tables of happy diners.
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But it didn’t take us long before we
happened upon another little gem: the café/restaurant Vista
Alegre, run by the amiable Walter Matthau look-alike, Tomas.
We noticed immediately that Tomas walked in funny, shuffling
little steps, and wondered why. It soon became apparent, after
sampling his wife’s excellent homemade bean soup!
The restaurant was situated in northeastern Ibiza in the tiny
hamlet of Sant Joan De Labritja, which consisted of several
banks, a new college and just a handful of houses. The
surrounding scenery was stunning and it quickly became our
favourite spot for lunch. And it appeared we were not alone.
On one visit, we found ourselves sitting next to none other
than Mick Jagger’s daughter Jade ( recognised those lips the
minute I saw them), along with her famous pals: Kate Moss and
Sadie Frost, who were all eating plain old egg and chips, much
to our amusement. No doubt glamorous models did not risk their
dignity by eating ‘Mrs Matthau’s’ lethal bean soup!
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Having found our ideal dining place, we
set off in search of the best place for some serious
sunbathing, and discovered a few of the many little cala’s
(bays) which surround Ibiza’s coastline. Many had a bar or
restaurant, while others lay well off the beaten track down
almost inaccessible dirt roads. Pou des Lleo, was charming.
There was rarely more than a dozen or so other people, and a
tiny bar provided cool drinks, when necessary. We noticed that
a few expensive-looking boats were anchored off shore and
assumed the owners were our fellow sunbathers. But no one
seemed to mind when we took our place amongst them, and the
atmosphere was very relaxed and pleasant (with exception of
one very loud - and presumably drunk - German, in the café!
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Our last day was spent without a car,
so we took a trip into Eivissa, the capital of Ibiza, and
visited the ancient and interesting old town: Dalt Vila. A
visit to this most historic part of the island (a walled city
of Phoenician/Roman/Moorish origins) is a must. The
multi-layered stone walls and white washed buildings, rose
steeply from the centre of Eivissa, rather like the crown of a
Mexican sombrero – with the ‘rim’ being made-up the narrow
alleys and slums which lay beneath the old town walls. It made
a startling contrast against the background marina of pristine
yachts on a bright blue horizon.
And would we return? Yes, definitely! We might be more ‘senile
dementia’ than Amnesia (the name of the island’s oldest club),
and ‘house’ just means somewhere to live, but Ibiza still has
much to offer for the more senior visitor!
Britt |
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